Religious ceremonies in Bali inevitably involve music and dancing as an offering designed to please the deities attending the ceremony. Needless to say, besides its sacral purpose, each performance is avidly enjoyed by the villagers. With the advent of tourism the performing arts have taken on a new role, and there has been somewhat of a revival as a result. Performing troupes and individual artists now have much more opportunity to be active, and are able to earn a living, albeit moderately remunerative, by performing at hotels and restaurants. Some villages have started up their own performing groups on a cooperative basis, and money is available for new instruments and dancing costumes. There is little glamour associated with the stage in Bali. Long hours of study are necessary for musicians and artistes to master the complex traditional music and theatre, transportation is very often an open truck, and performances go on till the early hours of the morning. However, all Balinese seem to have an in built appreciation of the arts, and the tradition seems to be thriving despite the arrival of commercialism. Once the prerogative of the Gods and royalty, now, through tourism, television and the interest and patronage of the government everyone has a chance to enjoy a wider repertoire of classic and modern performing arts than eve before.
Temple Entertainment
Only performances of a sacral nature are allowed in the inner sanctums of the temple. The most common is the Mendet dance, a simple welcome dance performed spontaneously by a group of women of all ages. Anyone may take part in this dance to greet the visiting spirits during temple festivals. Ordinary temple costumes are worn, and the dances bear a simple offering in their right hand, moving n stylized patterns to the music of the gong.
Another sacral dance performed on rare occasions is the Rejang, wherein group of women move gracefully around the inner courtyard of the temple in slow procession. Adorned with elaborate gold headdresses decorated with arcs of trembling flowers, the swaying line of women move in delicate, unrehearsed harmony. This dance can be seen at temple festivals in the Aga villages of Tenganan, Bungaya and Asak. Sanghyang trance dance may also be held in the inner temple. This dance form has the special purpose of enlisting the help of the Gods in protecting the village from pestilence and danger. Sanghyang means "possessed of spirit". A chorus of men sing a hypnotic chant that summons the spirits, till each dancer falls into a swoon of trance. There are a variety of Sanghyang dances, named according to the type of spirit they humour: Sanghyang Dedari, performed by young virgin girls, is a dance of angels, and in the Sanghyang Jarang a man takes on the movements of a horse, snorting and dancing over hot coals. A decade ago the sanghyang dances was very rare, but now it is performed in a somewhat abridged form for the general public. Regular evening performances are held in Bona, near Blahbatuh, jus half an hours's drive from Denpasar, and most travel agents include this in their tour schedules.
The mass warrior dance, Baris Gede, is often performed at temple ceremonies. Groups of men attired in military style headdresses and bearing spears, krisses and shields, form lines (baris) and enact a fearsome war dance in unison. The tempo build up into a mock battle, and sometimes eventuates in trance. This dance is generally unrehearsed, performed by men of the village as a guard of honor for the visiting deities. Pura Batur, in the Bangli regency, has four of five subtly different versions of the dance. The most amusing version is the Baris Tuan of Belanjong, Sanur, with its dances attired in a replica of Dutch colonial costumes. They dance and strut around the temple yard in arrogant postures before falling into a wild melee of trance
The sacred temple masks of Barong and Rangda are powerful protectors of the temple and village. The Barong is a gentle, clumsy creature with a leonine face, a great clacking jaw and a flowing white mane, that stretches nearly two meters long when animated by to male players, one in the head and one in the hind parts. The costume is richly ornamented with gilt mirrors and gold-painted leather, and reflects the light as the creature moves in its comical animal-like shambling gait. Rangda is bot opposite and complementary: an evil witch with straggly white hair, fangs, long drooping breast, a lolling tongue and dreadful fingernails. She brandishes a magic white cloth and instills fear in the hearts of all who watch, with her piercing high-pitched screams.
Once purely sacral, performances by the Barong and Rangda have now become popular fare. The village of Batubulan, just a few kilometers northeast of Denpasar, stages regular shows starring these two fantastic creatures in a condensed drama form based on a tale from the Mahabharata epic, mixed with elements of classical Legong and Topeng dances. Less frequent performances in a similar vein are to be found in Kuta and Singapadu. The story always climaxes in a battle between the two which drives the men attending into a craze of kris-stabbing.
A number of semi-sacral dances are performed in the middle courtyard of the temple, also as entertainment for visiting spirits during temple odalans. The Bambuh is one such performance, and ancient narrative performed in the most traditional dances have evolved.
Dating back at least 400 years, the sory of Gambuh is derived from a romantic epic poem known as Malat, the adventures of Prince Panji and his prospective bride, Candra form the base of the story, which is recited in ancient attendant-comedians for the benefit of the audience. The dance is accompanied by music from long bamboo flutes that five low, melodious tones, and the violin-like Rebab. The complete Gambuh story can last for up to six hours, so it is generally performed in episodes. There is an active Gambuh group in the village of Batuan that performs at local festivals and ceremonies.
Topeng mask dances are fairly common accompaniment to ceremony and ritual, but only two types of this dance are ever performed in the middle temple courtyard, Wayang Wong and Topeng Pajegan. The former, based upon the ancient Hindu epic of Ramayana, is a masked enactment of excerpts from the story of Rama's victory over the evil demon king, with the assistance of his loyal army of monkeys. Topeng Pajegan involves only a single dancer, who impersonates a series of characters by assuming different masks. He transforms himself from clown of prince, princess, old man, king and minister in rapid succession, his grand finale being the Topeng Sida Karya, a sacred mask imbued with powers t ensure that the Karya, or work (referring to the ceremony at which the performance is given), will be successfully completed.
For the appreciation of all
During temple ceremonies a stage is often set up in the outer courtyard of the temple or within the nearby banjar for the entertainment of the villagers and general public. Efforts are made to obtain the most popular artists and performances to ensure the occasion will be fully enjoyed.
Arja, aptly named the "opera of Bali", is common fare at temple festivals. In this form of dance drama the players sing and dance at the same time, and the major parts are all played by women, who sing in high-pitched voices with a nasal intonation. This solemn incantation is lightened by the clowning of the servants and couriers who keep the audiences informed with a hilarious narrative of low Balinese.
Another popular grand performance is the Ramayana Ballet, a modern interpretation of its s stately Javanese relative, jazzed up with a stirring gamelan accompaniment known as Gong Kebyar. Hanoman, the white monkey king, play a major role in a battle which provides both drama and amusements. Popular with tourists and local alike, the Ramayana is often performed as evening entertainment in the outdoor stages found in many of the island's larger hotels.
Legong Keraton is one of Bali's most beautiful classical dances. Its sophistication expresses the Balinese ideal of refined feminine beauty. Performance by two or three young girls wearing costumes shimmering with gold and crowned with exquisite headdresses adorned with frangipani blossoms, the dance is a masterpiece of intricate technique and dramatic power. Every movement hints of a depth of emotion and feeling as the tiny dancers glide about the stage, their fans twirling and fluttering as they making it almost impossible for the untrained observer to follow the thread of the story portrayed, a factor of little importance due to the sublime beauty of the overall performance. Much work has gone into the preservation, revival and development of certain Legong Keraton dances over the past decade, on both a village level and within the various dance academies, making a wide range of Legong dances now available to the public.
Masks play an important part in Balinese dance and drama. Perhaps the most popular mask performance is the Topeng Panca which starts off as simple mask dance to introduce the major characters, then develops into a fully fledged drama involving up to five or more dancers. There is a famous Topeng Panca group in the village of Canang sari, near the Sangeh Monkey forest. Less common are the ghost-like under tall branching gold headdresses with colorful pom-poms and tassels. Representing the forces of good, they are sometimes called Sandaran or Telek. And generally appear in a group of up to six dancers to act out a story prior to the clash of the Barong and Rangda in village performances. There are two similar styles of Jauk that can be performed by a solo male dancer, one of a refined and rather effeminate character, the other a puzzled, fierce demon, and these are sometimes included in concerts presenting a sampling of different kinds of Balinese dance.
Solo baris is a refined version of the old Baris Gede which evolved at the beginning of this century, and has since become accepted as the fundamental dance in the training of young male dancer students. The dance revels the emotions of a young warrior as he readies himself for the battlefield in tense excitement, plunging and feinting to avoid attack.
The virtuoso performance for sole male dancers is Kebyar Duduk, a dance which developed in the 1920’s as an innovative decoration to gamelan performance. Rival orchestras from Jagaraga and Bungkulan in North Bali created the original Kebyar, a choreographic development from Legon, which was then taken by the talented dancer Mario, who in 1925 performed the first kebyar duduk. Enamoured by the kebyar (lightning music), which is super-charged, dynamic and highly embellished, Mario created a dance that centered around the trompong kettledrum, portraying a young man on the threshold of adulthood, beset by a range of conflicting emotions. The dancer moves in close coordination to the music, his whirling sticks, flourishing gestures and sudden pauses in perfect harmony with the 35 odd other instruments.
Another of Mario’s creations was the Oleg Tamulilingan, a courtship dance for two that depicts two bumble-bees playing in the garden. This was choreographed for a tour of Europe and America in 1953, in an effort to expand the repertoire presentable to western audiences, as it was felt that language and cultural barriers rendered many of Bali’s dramatic dance genres unsuitable. The duet was a great success both with foreign audiences and in Bali, and has since obtained an established place in Bali’s treasure trove of dance forms.
A number of pantomimic dances appeared during early days of Indonesian independence, created out of political, nationalistic enthusiasm. Set to the fiery Gong Kebyar music, with movements that copy nature rather than following Bali’s traditional dance postures, the Tari Tani, “farmer’s dance” involves seven dancers who enact the sequence of planting, cultivating an harvesting rice. In a similar genre are the Tari Nelayan which describes the activities of fisherman, Tari Gembala Sapi, the “ploughmens’ dance” and Tari Tenun with its delicate rendering of women weaving.
Professional Joged dance troupes were once kept by royalty for the entertainment of guest of state. This flirtation dance starts with a solo in Legong style, which rapidly degenerates into an open invitation to a man in the audience. The dancer chooses a partner with a wave of her fan, an feigning reluctance he is pushed forward by his friends, and a sash is tied around his waist.
It is up to the man to create a flirtatious improvisation with the skilled Joged dancer. This improvisational dancing, known as ngibing, uses the classical movements of Modern Balinese dance, but places a much greater emphasis on the art of sensual body language. There are sexy, undulating wriggles, coy gestures with the fan, inviting smiles and suggestive winks. When the man becomes over enamoured of aggressive, the dancer skillfully dodges, side step and brushes away offending hand with a flick of her fan. Cheers and catcalls from the audience stir the male "suitor" into more and more daring attacks. The Joged may stop the duet at any moment with a swift movement of her fan.
Stories of pre-colonial days indicate that in former times liberties often continued after the performances, and often young boys dressed in women's costume know as gandrung played the female role. After national independence in 1945 Joged became less popular, somewhat due to a moralistic concern for public propriety.
However, in recent years, Joged dancing has regained popularity, both as entertainment for local people and as a tourist show. The latter is a somewhat stylized version wherein a number of female dancers appear together and decorously invite members of the audience, both men and women, to dance with them. These results in a comical sight as visitors completely unversed in Balinese dance try to mimic the delicate hand movements of their partners, moving with stiff bodies. However, the experience seems to be popular, and this opportunity to try the movements of a dance forms which to western eyes is usually greeted with enthusiasm.
The Kecak is one of the most popular shows amongst visitors to Bali. Performances start at dusk, with the lighting of flickering torches in a giant candelabra and the placing of offerings on the stage. Sudden shouts pierce the tranquility of the evening, and out of the darkness run a troupe of chanting men wearing black and white check sarongs, chest gleaming in the torchlight. They quickly arrange themselves in a series of concentric circles around the candelabra, where they sway and chant, one moment in unison, the next moment in syncopated counterpoint. A small group of dancers in full traditional costume perform an excerpt from the Ramayana in the midst of the waving sea of arms and bodies, dancing to the orchestrated voices. The "chak-chak-chak" of the chorus is adapted from the sanghyang chant, and the entire performance has an ethereal quality enhanced by the flickering of the torchligh. The first Kecak was created by dancers in Bedulu, Gianyar, who were commissioned by the well-known expatriate painter, Walter Spies. The first simple version was an immediate success, and now Bali boasts at least a dozen professional Kecak groups that perform regularly at the larger hotels and in special open stages built for the purpose in their banjar.
One of Bali's oldest performing arts is the Wayang Kulit shadow puppet play. Originating in Java, the Wayang Kulit came to Bali around 9th century A.D. along with the Hindu influences of the Javanese kingdoms, and was actually a powerful tool in introducing the relief and philosophy which were adopted by the Balinese, through the media of the ancient Mahabharata and Ramayana epics. The puppeteer sits with his gender musicians behind a thin white screen with a flickering oil lantern just above and in front of him. At the start of the performance he bangs three times on a wooden box containing his puppets to wake them up, the he hands each character one by one to his assistant who stick their wooden supports in the soft banana trunk at the base of his screen.
The entire ensemble is a miniature stage representing the cosmos. The screen is the universe, the banana trunk the earth, the lamp the sun, the puppets represent the whole spectrum of humanity, and the dalang is the supernatural being who conducts the flickering dance of life. The dalang is impersonator, storyteller and philosopher all in one. He is leader of the Gender Wayang music ensemble, a master of ancient literature and the old Kawi language, an orator with a repertoire of ancient tales, a priest with spiritual powers that enable him to ward of evil spirits, purify and bless the community, and a teacher of moral truth. He must be able sit for up to six hours at a time untiring assuming the vices of innumerable characters, tirelessly creating an epic drama from ancient tales of love and war, tempered with humor. The protagonists flash across the screen, finely delineated shadows that can be identified by their shape, voice and dress. Throughout the entire performance he taps a wooden horn held in his toes on the wooden puppet box, providing a rhythm and tempo that leads the musicians and emphasizes the movements on the screen. The audience, seated in semicircular fashion on the ground in front of the screen, watch spellbound, responding with shrieks of laughter and catcalls to the humor of the clown characters, who interpret the story in low Balinese.
Modern trends
Once purely performed for sacred purposes as a temple offering, Balinese dance and theatre has undergone many changes in the last century. Jus as craftsmen have begun to make copies of sacred objects to fill a demand for souvenirs, so has the dance evolved new form that area condensed and simplified for tourist consumption and do not require the ceremonial ritual or performed. The new genre fulfils a need for longer than a hour, and has developed a niche of its own in Bali's immense artistic repertoire. Although the Balinese public will always prefer to see the classic versions, they appreciate the economic role played by the new theatre of the hotel and tourist resort international zone.
At the same time, Balinese religious, cultural and political leaders have striven to ensure that sacred dances retain their pure unabridged form and will not be performed in public places for commercial gain. Back in the temple, the genuine Wali performance is alive, a constant reinstating of devotion to God, and entirely accessible to those who wish to spend time to explore Bali's culture to a greater depth.
Bali arts festival
The Foundation for Development and Preservation of Bali Art, Yayasan Bina Budaya, in its concern of the preservation of Bali's precious cultural heritage, has created an annual Bali Arts Festival which has just completed its tenth season. Set at the Werdhi Buaya Arts Center in Jalan Nusa Indah, Denpasar, during the months of June and July, the six-weeklong festival is an absolute feast of Bali's performing arts. A grand opening ceremony involves a parade from the central Puputan Square, nothing less than spectacular. Dancers in full costume, youths in ceremonial wedding attire from every region, entire orchestras in full musical swing march all the way from the center of town to the Art Center in grand style.
Nightly performances are scheduled, by the top artists and troupes of musicians and dancers on the island. Each year the program is carefully planned to include a representative cross section of Bali's secular performing arts, ancient to modern, as well as guest performances from other parts of Indonesia.
Thousands of avid enthusiasts, both local and foreign, flock to the Art Center nightly. For many of the performers this is the culmination of months of rehearsals, and they give their utmost for the occasion. The Arts Festival not only acts as a catalyst for the performing arts, it also offers a rare opportunity for audiences to enjoy a wide range of performances from all over the island in a compressed space and time bringing about an increase in cultural awareness amongst the youth of Bali.
During the day there are also programs and competitions for traditional skills and crafts such as mask-making, flower-arrangement, the preparation of traditional foods, costume both ancient and modern, lontar manuscript reading… to name just a few. A large craft exhibition opens for the duration of the festival in the spacious halls at the Center. And there are generally photography and painting exhibitions, complementing the Arts Center's permanent exhibition of paintings and handicrafts. Programs are available several months in advance from the Badung Tourism Office and Travel Agents, and visitors interested in witnessing a large range of Bali's performing arts in a short period of time would be well advised to plan their visits around this event.
Musical Heritage
Compared by scholars to "moonlight" and "flowing water", the sounds of Bali's flamboyant gamelan music form a vivid emotive background for all kinds of ritual, dance and theatre. Its fiery tempo, resounding notes and subtle interlude, comparable to no other musical form, correspond in perfect harmony to the mood of each moment and occasion.
The Balinese word of orchestra is gamelan. "Gamel" is and old Javanese word for hammer, and most instruments in Bali are percussive.
